Preparing a Plate for Intaglio Techniques

In this section, I discuss the preparation of a plate for intaglio techniques. It is important to note that there is no single way to perform these steps - what I describe is just one possible method.

BEVELING

- Zinc or copper plate

- Coarse/fine-cut file

- Scraper/Burnisher

Beveling a plate involves creating sloped edges along the borders of the plate, allowing for easier passage under the pressure of the press while minimizing the risk of damaging the felt blankets.

If properly cleaned during the printing phase, the beveled edge forms a subtle, non-intrusive border around the print.

You start by selecting a plate of the ideal size for your project. Once the size is determined, the edges are worked with a coarse-cut flat file for the initial beveling, followed by a fine-cut file for a more refined finish.

For easier handling, I recommend using heavy files and moving them diagonally along the edges. This technique facilitates the file’s movement and minimizes the marks left by the tool’s teeth.

The files should always be kept at a consistent angle, usually around 45°.

Once the plate’s edges have been worked, I recommend a light refinement of the corners to reduce their sharpness and the risk of injury.

My intervention is minimal and does not affect the printing surface, unlike those who, for aesthetic reasons, prefer to round the edges, making them more visible in the final print.

As the last tool for finishing the edges, we use the scraper/burnisher, a two-in-one tool with separate functions. To use the scraper, place your thumb on one of the three sides of the blade while resting the blade on the plate’s edge. Tilt your thumb toward you and apply sliding pressure to refine the edge—if done correctly, you will see a curl of metal being scraped off the plate. The thumb’s tilt adjusts according to the movement direction.

Once all the edges have been refined, we use the rounded part of the burnisher for a final pass on both the top and bottom edges. This step removes any remaining sharp burrs that could cause injuries or damage the printing surface.

POLISHING

- Emery paper (600/800/1200 grit)

- Steel wool (optional)

- Polishing paste (optional)

Unless it has been mechanically polished at the factory, a metal plate generally requires some degree of polishing. A rough and porous surface can cause unwanted gray tones during printing.

We then use emery paper, starting with a coarse grit and progressing to finer grits. It is best to begin with 600/800 grit, but if the plate has scratches or oxidation, it is advisable to start with a lower grit. The motion should always be bidirectional, applying sufficient hand pressure to achieve the best effect from the emery paper.

We continue increasing the grit size to obtain an increasingly polished surface—the more reflective it is, the closer the printed tone will be to pure white.

For perfectionists, steel wool and polishing paste can also be used for further refinement.

DEGRASING

- Whiting (Spanish white)

- Cotton cloth

- Hairdryer

Degreasing a plate is a necessary step for using indirect engraving techniques, which require a protective layer against acid corrosion during etching. For this reason, it is essential to ensure that the plate is completely free of grease, which may come from cleaning solvents, dirt, or fingerprints. Any residual grease can prevent the varnishes from spreading evenly during application.

To degrease a surface, various products can be used, such as household degreasers, 90% ethyl alcohol, or powdered bleaching agents.

I prefer using whiting (Spanish white), a very fine chalky white powder derived from shell deposits.

A generous amount of whiting is sprinkled onto the plate, and with a damp cloth or felt pad, the surface is rubbed until a creamy consistency is achieved. By scrubbing in circular motions across the entire plate, all grease residues are effectively removed. The success of the degreasing process can be confirmed by rinsing the plate under running water, if the water spreads evenly across the surface without beading up, the plate has been properly cleaned.

Once degreased, a clean cloth is used to remove excess water, followed by a hairdryer to eliminate any remaining moisture.

It is important to dry the plate quickly, as zinc and copper oxidize easily when exposed to water.